2003 s.e. ice Conditions
These are the conditions as I posted them in 2002. If you have comments please e-mail to the .
SUNDAY: 22 DECEMBER 2003
Georgia:
Hogpen Gap: Lots of fat ice. Must swing area right now.
NORTH CAROLINA
Big Lost Cove: No report.
Doughton Park: Conditions are getting better with Big Daddy getting close.
Winding Stair: Nope
Hwy. 215: There are a few very thin routes.
Graveyard: The best climbing in the area.
Hwy. 221: No new report.
Whitesides: Not much.
SATURDAY: 13 DECEMBER 2003
Georgia:
Hogpen Gap: some scratching but not real great.
NORTH CAROLINA
Big Lost Cove: Nope
Doughton Park: A little top ropeing but not much else. The gully and Big Daddy are not in.
Winding Stair: Nope
Hwy. 215: There are a few very thin routes. This area is not doing well this year.
Graveyard: The best climbing in the area.
Hwy. 221: No new report.
Whitesides: Not a whole lot happening.
SUNDAY: 7 DECEMBER 2003
Georgia:
Hogpen Gap: The temperature went way back down over the weekend and everything has really fattened up. There were eight separate lines led here this weekend by multiple parties. This place is a sure bet fro the next couple of days.
Yonah Mountain: A little verglass on the north face but nothing worth the walk.
NORTH CAROLINA
Doughton Park: There are several top ropeable lines but they are very thin and will not stand up to hoards of traffic. It is looking better so get ready. Big daddy is forming nicely and the gulley may be leadable in a couple of days. The drips on either side of the gulley are in.
Winding Stair: Not worth the drive. Not even any top ropes formed yet. The rain really cashed this place in.
Hwy. 215: There are a few very thin routes. They are so thin that any attempt as climbing them would probably destroy them.
Graveyard: The climbing here has improved and is well worth the approach.
Hwy. 221: No new report.
Whitesides: Sympathy for the Devil 2x2, a.k.a. Starshine had the first pitch washed away Thursday night. The upper pitch held on so watch for the bottom to return quickly. Scotch on the Rocks is in with the traditionally thin first pitch and the upper pitch is fat.
FRIDAY: 5 DECEMBER 2003
Georgia:
Hogpen Gap: Some rain came through last night and washed all of the bolted lines and mixed stuff away. Three fat routes survived the rain and it should be better tomorrow with Sunday and Monday looking for much improvement.
Yonah Mountain: Rain killed everything.
NORTH CAROLINA
Winding Stair: Rain got it too.
Hwy. 215: Rain got most of the routes but some hung on so look for improvements by Sunday.
Graveyard: Rain washed out a few of the routes but a few of the bigger ones stayed making for some decent top roping.
Hwy. 221: The road cut stuff and the creeks along this section of road are coming in and presently it is snowing and cold.
MONDAY: 1 DECEMBER 2003
Georgia:
Hogpen Gap: The ice is starting to get fat. We managed to put up a new bolted line which gives another thin conditions leading option. If the weather holds we will be turning screws by mid-week.
Yonah Mountain: Xanadu and a few of the north face routes looked good on Saturday but Xanadu had dissapeared by Sunday. North face stuff was looking o.k. from the road.
NORTH CAROLINA
Winding Stair: Some bouldering and a couple of thin top ropeable lines.
Hwy. 215: Bouldering o.k. but no routes.
Graveyard: Was looking good until the Ranger showed up and ran everyone off. Just because the gate is unlocked does not mean the road is open. Be careful and walk when in doubt.
TUESDAY: 25 NOVEMBER 2003
Georgia:
Hogpen Gap: The standard boulder problem was in and there were three top ropeable routes. It may hold through tomorrow morning but was looking bad already at 8:30 this morning..
NORTH CAROLINA
Winding Stair: Some bouldering this morning should improve by tomorrow.
SUNDAY: 16 NOVEMBER 2003
Georgia:
Hogpen Gap: The standard boulder problem was in and there were three topropeable routes. It all held through Saturday morning but is now gone.
NORTH CAROLINA
Hwy. 215: Some bouldering on Friday but nothing left on Saturday.
Graveyard Fields: Good bouldering Friday and Saturday. Sunday was a bust.
THE SEASON IS FINALLY STARTED. THIS IS THE LATEST I HAVE HAD TO WAIT FOR ICE IN YEARS. START SENDING IN REPORTS AND I'LL KEEP YOU ALL ABREAST OF WHAT IS IN GOOD SHAPE FOR THE THIRD YEAR STRAIGHT.
SATURDAY: 1 MARCH 2003
IT LOOKS LIKE THE SEASON IS CLOSED HERE IN THE SOUTHEAST. I HAVE HEARD THERE IS SOME ICE LEFT IN KENTUCKY AND WEST VIRGINIA BUT HAVE NO CONFIRMATION. IF ANYONE CAN SEND ME SOME BETA FOR UP THERE I WILL JUMP IN THE TRUCK AND CHECK IT OUT.
TUESDAY: 18 FEBRUARY 2003
Georgia:
Hogpen Gap: No Report.
Rabun Bald: No report.
Yonah: All gone.
NORTH CAROLINA
Whitesides: Was still up on Thursday of last week but do not know present condition.
Hwy. 215: All the big routes are laying in the road. Some of the small boulder problems remain.
Winding Stair: No report.
Graveyard Fields: No report.
THE RAIN LAST WEEK AND OVER THE WEEKEND HAS DESTROYED ALL OF THE ICE I HAVE CHECKED OUT THUS FAR. I AM NOT SURE ABOUT ALL OF THE AREAS SO I NEED ANYONE WITH ANY BETA TO E-MAIL ME. I HAVE HEARD THAT THERE IS STILL GOOD CLIMBING IN THE BOONE AREA AND THE MT. MITCHELL VICINITY BUT HAVE NO CONFIRMATION. I WAS UNABLE TO GET OUT THIS WEEKEND SO UNLESS I GET SOME INFO FROM OTHERS I CAN'T BE OF MUCH HELP.
MONDAY: 10 FEBRUARY 2003
Georgia:
Hogpen Gap: The road to Hogpen has been closed since last Thursday. As soon as it reopens I will let ya'll know how it is.
Rabun Bald: No new report.
Yonah: North face is in fair shape.
NORTH CAROLINA
Whitesides: Starshine is still in but not sure about other stuff. Need more info.
Hwy. 215: I counted six or seven leadable lines by my standards there this weekend. Don't go camp out on a climb with a toprope and hack it to death. Be respectful.
Winding Stair: Has taken a beating but is still hanging on. There are a couple of leadable route on the far right side. The topouts are thin and covered in snow so use caution. There are a few taller toprope options available also
Graveyard Fields: In real good shape. As of Sunday there was 10+ inches of snow on the road and more was falling as we left. They were predicting several more inches. The walk takes about two hours in the snow, 1.5 hours to ski and a mountain bike with studded tires can make it if there has not been too much new snow.
Daughton Park: No report.
Back Country: No new reports.
MONDAY: 03 FEBRUARY 2003
HERE IS ALL I KNOW AT PRESENT: AS OF SUNDAY STARSHINE WAS STILL IN. IT IS FLOWING A GOOD DEAL OF WATER BUT IS O.K. HWY. 215 IS REALLY THIN AND HACKED OUT. THE COMBINATION OF THE WARMTH AND HIGH TRAFFIC HAS TAKEN ITS TOLL. winding stair gap was holding on but really soft.
I KNOW NOTHING ELSE FOR SURE EXCEPT THAT IT HAS BEEN WARM AND RAINY. TEMPS GO BACK DOWN TOMORROW SO WHATEVER HOLDS ON THROUGH THEN SHOULD BE GETTING BETTER. SOMEONE PLEASE SEND SOME REPORTS. REALLY INTERESTED TO KNOW IF THE HEAT AFFECTED THE BOONE AREAS.
TUESDAY: 28 JANUARY 2003
Georgia:
Hogpen Gap: The only climbs here are the three short boulder problems on the upper left end.
Rabun Bald: Too cold, the water is not flowing and all the routes are fat at the top but do not even come close to touching the ground yet but is getting closer.
Yonah: North face is in good shape. Still too sunny for Xanadu to form.
Lake Lanier: Glade falls came in for one morning and fell before noon. If it is less than 10 degrees in the morning look for two routes to form on the right side.
NORTH CAROLINA
Whitesides: Starshine is way freakin fat. East face is still not in. Scotch is not in either. The big three pitch grade 4 that can be seen in the valley from Starshine is in. The freestanding column on the second pitch is fragile so be careful. Three Stooges Gulley is in and so is the waterfall on the Starshine trail. All of the high volume stuff is good the seeps are bad.
Hwy. 215: Several leadable options here but much of the steeper stuff is staying too hacked up by topropers to form properly. If you must take large groups here do not let each member of your party do a individual climb more than a couple of times. Save some ice for the next folks.
Winding Stair: Good Shape. At least 5 leadable lines and lots of toprope options.
Graveyard Fields: Still in really good shape. Most mornings the gate has been closed at Hwy. 215 so be prepared for a 6 to 7 mile approach.
Daughton Park: In good shape. Smaller climbs are in. Big Daddy is leadable.
Back Country: Some stuff is in, others are not. If you are a true "old timer" and know me personally then e-mail me for a private report. Will trade beta for beta.
thursDAY: 23 JANUARY 2003
Georgia:
Hogpen Gap: The only climbs here are the three short boulder problems on the upper left end. At 2:30 p.m. today it was 7 degrees with 40 m.p.h. winds. It is so cold here that the ground water is locked up and the ice is not forming properly.
Rabun Bald: Too cold, the water is not flowing and all the routes are fat at the top but do not even come close to touching the ground yet.
Yonah: North face is in good shape. Still too sunny for Xanadu to form.
NORTH CAROLINA
Whitesides: Starshine is fat but that is all. East face is still not in. Scotch is not in either.
Hwy. 215: Several leadable options here but much of the steeper stuff is staying too hacked up by topropers to form properly. If you must take large groups here do not let each member of your party do a individual climb more than a couple of times. Save some ice for the next folks.
Winding Stair: Good Shape. At least 5 leadable lines and lots of toprope options.
Graveyard Fields: Still in really good shape. Most mornings the gate has been closed at Hwy. 215 so be prepared for a 6 to 7 mile approach.
Daughton Park: In good shape. Smaller climbs are coming in. Big Daddy is leadable.
Back Country: Some stuff is on others are not. If you are a true "old timer" and know me personally then e-mail me for a private report.
MONDAY: 20 JANUARY 2003
Georgia:
Hogpen Gap: Road closed at present but routes should be in good shape by now.
Rabun Bald: Too cold, the water is not flowing and all the routes are fat at the top but do not even come close to touching the ground yet.
Yonah: North face is in good shape. Too sunny for Xanadu to form.
NORTH CAROLINA
Whitesides: Starshine is fat but that is all. East face is still not in. Scotch is not in either.
Hwy. 215: Several leadable options here but much of the steeper stuff is staying too hacked up by topropers to form properly. If you must take large groups here do not let each member of your party do a individual climb more than a couple of times. Save some ice for the next folks.
Winding Stair: Good Shape. At least 5 leadable lines and lots of toprope options.
Graveyard Fields: In really good shape. Most mornings the gate has been closed at Hwy. 215 so be prepared for a 6 to 7 mile approach.
Daughton Park: No new report but should be good. Someone let me know.
Back Country: Some stuff is on others are not. If you are a true "old timer" and know me personally then e-mail me for a private report.
THURSDAY: 16 JANUARY 2003
Georgia:
Hogpen Gap: Still thin but a few better toprope possibilities.
Rabun Bald: Thin but should be decent by first of next week.
Yonah: Coming in.
NORTH CAROLINA
Whitesides: Starshine is fat but that is all. East face is still not in. Scotch is not in either.
Hwy. 215: Thin with several toprope options. Top roperes are hacking it down faster than it can form here.
Winding Stair: No report.
Graveyard Fields: In good shape. Most mornings the gate has been closed at Hwy. 215 so be prepared for a 6 to 7 mile approach.
Daughton Park: No new report.
MONDAY: 13 JANUARY 2003
Georgia:
Hogpen Gap: Thin but a few toprope possibilities.
Rabun Bald: No report.
Yonah: No report.
NORTH CAROLINA
Whitesides: Starshine is fat. East face is not in.
Hwy. 215: Thin with several toprope options.
Winding Stair: No report.
Graveyard Fields: In fairly decent shape. Most mornings the gate has been closed at Hwy. 215 so be prepared for a 6 to 7 mile approach.
Daughton Park: No new report.
MONDAY: 6 JANUARY 2003
Georgia:
Hogpen Gap: Thin but a few toprope possibilities.
Rabun Bald: Not in.
Yonah: Some thin options on the North face..
NORTH CAROLINA
Whitesides: Nothing really climbable.
Hwy. 215: Several lines are in. The best conditions in the S.E. at present.
Winding Stair: Nada
Graveyard Fields: Some of the shorter routes survived the big thaw.
Doughton Park: The main climb is in.
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